By Roberto Plaza — Biologist & Co-founder of Montemar

At Dawn: Sharing Space with Giants

At dawn, the land wakes slowly. Mist drifts through the highland forest, softening the outlines of trees and villas alike. Inside, coffee warms the hands before the day fully begins. Outside, just beyond the window, a Giant Tortoise rests—motionless, traced with dried mud, breathing deeply.

It feels less like an encounter and more like a shared moment of stillness, one that belongs naturally to this place.

Life here unfolds within the ancestral territory of the Santa Cruz Giant Tortoises. At roughly 250 meters above sea level, the land forms part of an ancient migratory corridor used by Chelonoidis porteri, one of the largest Giant Tortoise species in the Galápagos. Individuals weighing up to 600 pounds move across this landscape following rhythms shaped over thousands of years—rhythms that continue to define daily life at Montemar.

Life Shaped by Seasons

The Galápagos lie on the equator, where seasonal changes arrive gradually yet carry profound ecological effects. During the warm, wetter months from December through May, the highlands remain lush. Giant Tortoises stay at this elevation until late February or early March, when many begin moving downslope, drawn by newly filled ponds, fresh green sprouts, and fruiting trees such as Muyuyo and Poison Apple.

As rains taper off in May, the lowlands dry quickly. Hunger and the search for water guide the largest males back uphill, arriving by June. Their days unfold slowly—resting beneath trees, feeding on native vegetation, and moving deliberately across the land. A deep calm settles in, shaping the rhythm of Montemar itself.

Females follow a different rhythm, closely tied to reproduction. After reaching the lowlands, they wait until August to begin nesting, digging their first nests as soil conditions become optimal. Nesting continues through October, with each female laying two to three clutches before returning toward the highlands.

Hatchlings emerge four months or more later, between late December and February. These young tortoises spend their first ten to fifteen years in the lowlands, where warmer temperatures support their growth before they gradually expand their range upslope.

As females return to the highlands and encounter waiting males, the cycle begins anew—movement, courtship, nesting, and renewal—unfolding according to patterns shaped over millennia.

Calm, Daily Rhythms

During the cooler months, mornings often begin quietly. Gentle yoga or moments of meditation practiced outdoors harmonize naturally with the pace of the Giants. Observing Tortoises moving, feeding, or resting invites attention to the present moment, grounding both residents and guests in the rhythm of the land.

The restored freshwater and mud pond becomes a central stage of activity. By November, the water draws a remarkable gathering of Tortoises. On some nights, the pond hosts more than a hundred Giants at once, while across the property, many more—sometimes exceeding two hundred—move, rest, or feed nearby.

They share mud that regulates temperature and protects skin, unfolding quietly and steadily, a living testament to a thriving ecosystem.

With the return of warmer conditions, the energy of the landscape shifts again. Females begin arriving from the lowlands after completing their nesting cycles. Rising temperatures increase activity, interactions become more frequent, and the forest occasionally carries deep, resonant sounds—low, distant groans that signal courtship. These sounds blend into the natural soundscape, subtle yet unmistakable.

A Place Restored for Giants

Fifteen years of ecological work have reactivated natural functions across the property. Introduced plants were controlled, soils recovered, and the natural pond returned to life. Native grasses, herbs, and vines—key components of the Tortoises’ diet—responded quickly.

The Giants followed.

Over time, familiarity grew. Certain individuals became recognizable through shell shape, scars, or preferred resting places. One male, affectionately named Monti by guests, returns each year to rest beside the window of Villa Tortuga, choosing the same spot with quiet consistency.

Science Woven into Daily Life

The clear ecological response inspired closer study. Collaboration with Dr. Steven Blake, Director of the Giant Tortoise Movement Ecology Program, transformed the property into an active research site.

Montemar sponsors seven satellite transmitters, placed on male and female Tortoises known as Destiny, Butternut, Laura, Monti, Roberto, and Speedy Gonzales. These devices allow scientists to study movements, behavior, and habitat use in real time, while guests may occasionally glimpse the animals carrying them during their daily routines.

Scientific work has also expanded to include the microbiology of the tortoise pond and its effects on health, highlighting how even microscopic processes support these long-lived animals.

A Way of Living with the Land

Montemar grew organically from a family vision rooted in respect for nature. The villas were originally built as a family home, with children actively participating in decisions and learning early that every choice on the land carries responsibility.

Conservation is supported through organic specialty coffee cultivation, an organic garden, laying hens, and regenerative agricultural practices that nourish both the project and the community. The villas are built with eco-efficient design principles, powered by solar energy, and supplied with rainwater collected for all uses.

The garden also serves as a space for learning, welcoming members of the local community interested in horticulture and sustainable practices.

Every choice—planting, building, or walking across the land—centers on the Giants. Daily encounters reveal new insights into individual behavior, preferences, and personality, offering lessons in patience, observation, and respect.

Living Alongside Giants

Today, Montemar offers a grounded expression of comfort. Thoughtfully integrated villas, a private chef, and personalized service provide ease without overshadowing the environment. Carefully designed excursions connect guests with Galápagos biodiversity, guided by some of the archipelago’s most experienced naturalists.

The hosts—both biologists with over thirty years of experience in the Galápagos—remain closely involved in daily life, welcoming guests and sharing knowledge.

The greatest privilege lies in proximity. Sharing space with Giants—among the longest-living creatures on Earth—invites humility, presence, and attention. Mornings often begin quietly, shaped by mist, coffee, and the steady breath of a nearby Giant Tortoise.

Here, balance reveals itself naturally, one slow step at a time.